Sunday, April 11, 2010

Wood Elf Update

The dryad conversion work continues.
So I decided to further convert some of my dryads by using a dryad leg with the daemonette torso and leg.  First I separated the daemonette bodies with right legs from those with left legs.  Turns out there are 5 of each per box, which is nice.  Then I compared dryad leg options until I found a good match.  I used clippers to get the dryad leg close to shape, and then I carefully carved with an exacto until the leg fit just right.  I tried to retain as much detail as possible to minimize green stuff work later.
Next I studied the pieces to figure out the placement and orientation for the pin.  I spun the exacto knife on point to make a starting position for the drill.  Then I drilled holes in each piece, and cut a paperclip to length for the pin.
I superglued the pin to the leg and put greenstuff in areas that needed to be filled or shaped.  Then I applied superglue to the hole in the torso and pressed the pieces together.  I used steel modelling tools to press and shape the green stuff.  When the superglue was dry, I used a wet teflon colourshaper tool to finish the greenstuff sculpting, smooth edges, and remove fingerprints.
I am quite pleased with how they turned out!  This group achieves a nice transition stage for the dryads in their transformation from female spirits to their war aspects.  This transformation is the key design element for my tree spirits.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Wood Elf Update

So, I decided to use the new daemonette plastics for my dryad bodies instead of the 6th edition metals.  Obviously, plastic is easier to work with.  Also, they are a bit bigger, and the arms don't look too big on them.  In fact, I think they look just right.  Both the dryad arms and the daemonette body have shoulders.  So there is a bit of detail carving to get them to fit together and look appropriate.
Regular GW bases would be easy to glue the daemonette legs to.  However, I am using GF9 bases, and I am taking care to keep the feet from being covered by the basing pumice.  So after trimming the flash from the main body and leg, I carve a starter hole for drilling.  I make the placement is appropriate so the drill can go for about an 1/8 inch without breaking through the ankle.
Then I drill.  As you can see, these are skinny parts.  I am only drilling big enough to fit the smallest paper clip.
Then I glue the paperclip in place to be cut to length later.
This de-flashing, carving, drilling, and pinning must be done to each leg!  The GF9 bases take less force to remove from the magnet sheet in the movement tray than the rare earth metal magnets.  This is good because these legs are skinny, and I don't want them to fatigue due to handling.

Next I find the dryad arms I want to work with, decide on the position, do some detail carving to both the arm shoulders and the body shoulders, and use plastic glue to get a permanent bond.  There is then some filing and greenstuff action required to make the connection smooth and transparent.

I then use a larger drill (1/16 inch) to put holes in the GF9 base.  There was too much resistance for the skinny plastics when I used the smaller drill in the GF9 base.  I was likely just going to snap the model at the ankle.  So more clearance allowed an easier fit up, and better accomodated the model since the pins in each leg were at different angles.  I pummice the base leaving the holes just barely visible, add super glue, and position the dryad on top of the pumice.  Ta Da!